After my month in Scotland and before my adventure in Northern Ireland, I decided to leave the UK and escape to Belgium for a few weeks. I had been to Bruges before, but I wanted to try something less touristy, so I decided to go to Ghent, instead.
Ghent is a little city in the Flemish region of Belgium. It does not receive the same amount of attention than other Belgian cities and I seriously can’t tell why, since I found it delightful. The town still has a bit of that medieval flair in its architecture and atmosphere, but, at the same time, it is lively and fun, especially for students and young people.
I stayed there for three whole weeks and, although I enjoyed my time there, I’d say that two or even one week are enough to enjoy the city’s wonders. In any case, I made a little guide with some of my favourite things about this Belgian underrated city.
A few warnings first
The language
I can understand French. I mean, I’m far from fluent, but I can get by. But turns out they don’t speak French in Ghent, they speak Dutch, and do you know my knowledge of Dutch? Zero.
I was on the verge of panic when I arrived to the bus station with a bunch of Flemish phrases written down on my notebook. I couldn’t pronounce half of them and I had to catch a bus to get to my hostel. Somehow, I mumbled a few words in something that I’m pretty sure wasn’t Dutch and the driver laugh (probably at me) and started to speak in English.
Turns out that most people in the area speak a proficient English and they are more than happy to talk to you the moment they see you struggling. I always try to learn how to say “hello”, “thank you” and “please” at least, just to make an effort, but if you speak English, you shouldn’t have any troubles in Ghent.
The red light district
The first morning I arrived to Ghent I decided to do what I always do in a new city and take a walk around town. I put on my walking boots and hit the road with no planned destination (as usual) when I saw a tiny lane that, to my inexperienced eyes, looked like a sort of shopping street. And let me tell you, that wasn’t the window shopping I was expecting.
I’m no prude and I had always thought that I’d like to visit the red district in Amsterdam. However, I was not expecting to find one in Ghent. Particularly one opened around 9:30 am. I was right in the middle of the street when I discovered my mistake and it was too late to do anything else but keep on walking while these gorgeous, lingerie-covered girls posed around some super decorated showcases.
The place is called The Glass Alley and it’s not very far from the town centre. If you want to visit it or avoid it it’s entirely up to you.
Where to go
Walk around the historical centre
This is something that I suggest to do in ANY new city. Walking around a downtown can really give you the idea of the kind of vibe a city emits. You get the feel of its people, sounds and colours.
Ghent is a feast for the eyes. The architecture just makes you travel back in time. Additionally, most of the town centre is car-free so it’s perfect to wander around and be delighted by its cobbled streets and canals.
Saint Bavo Cathedral – The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb
I am so ashamed to admit that I had no idea this piece was in Ghent. My friend Maggie, who was also volunteering at the same hostel than me, told me about it and I decided it was worth the six euros it costs to see the piece. The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb by Hubert and Jan van Eyck is the most stolen artwork in the world and it has also been burned, dismantled and damaged over time. However, it is now safe in Saint Bavos Cathedral and it’s been restored at the Museum of Fine Arts.
You can’t take photographs of the painting, but I can honestly say that it is impressive. With your ticket, you also get an audio guide explaining the history of the altar piece, its tragic past and some of the painters’ background.
Even if you are not that interested in the painting, I would still recommend to visit the cathedral. It was under repair when I went, but it is still beautiful. Additionally, is free to get inside, unlike many other attractions in Ghent.
Street Markets
I won’t get tired of writing about it: I am a declared fan of street markets and Ghent did not disappoint in that department. To be honest, I never quite figured out the schedules of many of them, but, especially during the weekends I could be just coming back from a stroll and suddenly bumping into a bunch of vintage clothing and antiques stalls right next to St James Church or an organic market in the middle of the city’s many squares.
I found this too late, but if you want, you can check the schedules and locations of Ghent’s street markets and let me know which one was your favourite.
Take a boat tour
A bit touristy, but you can’t really miss it, can you? The prices are quite affordable (around 7 euros per adult) and the views are lovely!
Have a look at the full list of the different companies that offer the tours, sometimes they make discounts if you are a student or under certain age.
NT Ghent
Even if you don’t go to see a show, the mere view of this building is enough to capture your heart. It is right next to St Bravo Cathedral and within walking distance of many other attractions in the town centre. Snap some shots, have a look at the billboard and whine because you can’t understand Dutch and then move along. Believe me, it’s worth it.
Visit the design stores
This is a very personal recommendation, since I LOVE anything that has to do with design. Ghent truly encourages its local artists and artisans, so you can find plenty design stores around town with the loveliest, most original pieces. From homeware to stationary to jewellery, every window just lured me to get inside and swoon for things I shouldn’t buy.
I must warn you, it is a bit pricey, since most of the products are local and, in some cases, hand-made, but the quality is that good.
Have a look at The English Bookshop
I can’t visit a new place without getting my hands on something to read. I usually go for the eBooks, since I have limited luggage space. However, I found this cute little place while I was walking around town and I couldn’t resist.
I had been happy enough just flipping the pages of the Dutch illustrated books I found in my way. I had come to terms with the idea that I wouldn’t be getting any English book during that trip, but The English Bookshop proved me wrong. Although small, the place is crowded with second-hand books at ridiculously good prices. Seriously, I had like 4 euros in my pocket and I managed to get two books in just one visit.
Have a look at St Nicholas Church
This point is mainly because of the view. Isn’t is amazing?
Where to drink
Dulle Griet
If you are just going to drink in one place in Ghent, please go to this one! I am writing a full post dedicated only to Dulle Griet the next week, but it is, without a doubt, the star of town. I won’t give away a lot of spoilers, but let’s just say that it is better if you don’t bring your favourite shoes to this place.
Drinking by the channels
You don’t need a specific bar for this. Ghent is full of bars around its many water bodies and it is pretty common to buy a beer in one of them and just sit next to the canal to enjoy the drink. It is a perfect way to interact with the locals and get a true feel of the city’s nightlife (although many people start around noon, but is perfectly acceptable).
What to eat
Have some mint tea and a sandwich at Den Hoek Af
Den Hoek Af was my absolute favourite place during my stay. I like to go to different places to try new things during my trips, but this place was so good that I went back several times. The first thing that called my attention was the amazing Alice in Wonderland mural, but the food and drink are also superb.
The chai is quite good, but the star is this mint tea made with actual, fresh leaves. Additionally, they serve you every order with the cutest tiny waffle in the world and a delicious piece of chocolate, because, Belgium, duh. The staff is also super friendly and they don’t hesitate to speak to you in English if needed.
Eat some lunch in Simon Says
I guess like, with books and covers, you shouldn’t judge a restaurant by its façade. But just look at that building! I was walking around when I saw the place and fell in love. Therefore, I decided to have some lunch in one of its high tables. They had a really nice soup and, since it was socially acceptable, I also ordered an apple cider (it must have been 5:00 O’clock somewhere).
Try Ghent Noses once… And never again
Ghent Noses or Gentse neus are a typical sweet of the area. They are basically a chewy, gummy-like candy and they usually taste like raspberry. I was not so keen on trying them, since I’m not that much into sweets (except chocolate, because that’s not a sweet, it’s a gift from heavens). But a Mexican guy I met in the hostel got a huge bag of them and was kind enough to give me a few as a gift…
Just as I was expecting it, they were extremely sweet and its flavour was clearly artificial and strong. They are definitely not my cup of tea, but I’d say you should at least try them.
Get your hands on some Belgian Waffles
This was a tough one for me. For starters, most of the city centre smells like waffles, so I started craving them since I set foot there. However, they were everywhere, so which place was the best? I walked to a small shop and they tried to sell me one at 8 euros, so ran in panic to the next stall. My horror was even bigger when I realised most of them were covered in whipped cream, chocolate and fruit, which is just a tourist trap (the original ones only have powdered sugar).
Finally, I bumped into a street market and saw a tiny stall with plain waffles at 3 euros. It didn’t take me long to decide that it was the place.
Goes without saying, but GET-SOME-CHOCOLATE
Let’s get something clear: You can get chocolate EVERYWHERE in Ghent. Sometimes you don’t even have to spend money on it. It’s in your accommodation’s pillow, with your check at every café, as a free sample while you walk around town. I’d strongly suggest to invest in a nice piece of chocolate, though, because, well you are in Belgium. Most of the fancy shops offer samples to visitors, so you just go there and eat like there’s no tomorrow until a sweet steals your heart.
Where to Stay
KaBa Hostel
My decision to go to Ghent was highly influences by KaBa Hostel. I read the hostel was looking for creative people to collaborate with them and I just had to sign up.
From the moment I saw those murals on the wall I couldn’t wait to get my hands on them. I know I have been dedicating myself to digital illustration lately, but there’s nothing like an actual hand-draw to inspire my creativity. Katryn and Bart (the hostel owners) loved my artwork and invited me to stay at the hostel for free. The only condition was that I had to draw a new illustration for the hostel and helped them with some reception hours.
I am not lying when I say that this is one of the loveliest hostels I’ve stayed. Not only the artwork on the walls, but the facilities and the rooms were beautiful. Breakfast is included and you can help yourself with a variety of cereals, nuts, bread, fruit, ham, eggs and cheese. The WiFi is quite good too, and most of the people I met there were pretty cool. They only have two private rooms. Nevertheless, the dormitories and shared bathrooms are very clean and tidy. Additionally, the place is within walking distance from the city centre.
During my last week there I finally sketched something that reflected some of my feelings. You can judge, I won’t mind:
I like to work with more colours, but I had limited resources at the time. However, I didn’t dislike the final result. In any ways, if I’m ever back in the area I would definitely stay there again.
I really enjoyed your interpretation of the lovely City of Gent. I found it most informative.
Thank you so much, Tom! Ghent was such a charming city and I really wanted to do justice to it. I’d love to go back some day. Best wishes!
Dann Castillo recently posted…The Importance of Solo Female Travel
How about biking in Gent?
Oh, biking in Ghent is great! I didn’t bike a lot because I am a huge fan of walking, but most of the travellers and locals I met said that it was an amazing way to travel around the city. Usually, you can rent a bike for a whole day for around €9.00, but it depends on the company. Additionally, if you go to Ghent Tourist Office they can give you maps with cycling routes.
If you are staying for a short period and want to save some time, I’d definitely recommend biking, but if you have a more flexible schedule, I’d say that the city is small enough to walk it.
Dann Castillo recently posted…The Importance of Solo Female Travel
LOL no one told you Ghent is in the Flemish part on Belgium? (Everyone in Belgium is supposed to know both the languages, and most do! But if you’re in the French part they refuse to speak Dutch, and the other way around, there was a HUGE riot a few years ago as both the king and the prime minister of Belgium are supposed to speak both languages, but their Dutch is horrible, so they were forced to take classes and address people in both languages). And I still have no idea how you ended up in the red light district of Ghent, since it’s not really a district but a street 😉 Next time you’re in town, make sure not to miss the street art as it’s the most cutting edge in Europe and world’s most famous street artists are actually from Ghent!!
Esther recently posted…Hotspot in Johannesburg: Maboneng Precinct
Hahaha well, yeah, I did do some research before arriving and I found out about the Dutch language. I even scribbled a few phrases in my notebook and practiced with google translator, but I’m sure the results were frankly pathetic. I tried with French later, but since everyone could tell that I was not a native, they were kind enough to speak to me in English (I mean, I’m not a native English speaker either, but I get by). How I ended up in the red light street, I still don’t know 😛 I guess it was because it was near the hostel and I genuinly thought it was a regular shopping street at first sight. I was so young and naive… I’m loving the street art idea! Right now I’m near Belfast and they have amazing street art as well, so I’d be great to make a post with some of the best places to find street murals or something like that. Thanks for the awesome tips, Esther!
Dann Castillo recently posted…The Importance of Solo Female Travel